Today was road trip day. Brigitte's host mother, Eva, took us for a drive through northeastern Hungary. That doesn't sound like much, except gas is not inexpensive in Europe, Hungary is not as monetarily wealthy as the US, today was Eva's one day off (for Pentecost), AND tomorrow she is proctoring final exams and grading tests. So from the adult perspective of sacrificing time--today was a big gift and appreciated.
This is the Tisza River. It's the second biggest in Hungary. This is in the direction of the Ukraine where it comes into Hungary from. On the northern end of Hungary, this goes through wine country: Tokaj.
This is the Tisza in the other direction. If you're from the US Midwest, the color should look familiar. It's brown like the Mississippi. In Hungary, it is called the Blonde Tisza because it carries so much sand in it (just as the Mississippi carries silt). It's about 1/6th or 1/7th the width of the Mississippi I'd guess. Maybeeeeee 1/10th.
This red flower grows everywhere in NE Hungary. It isn't a poppy, but otherwise, I have no idea. It was very bright-colored and pretty.
These were roses outside the first church we visited. I miss Julie and know she'll read this and since she loves flowers--hey, you get flower pictures. A lot of Hungarians grow flowers, by the way.
This is the belltower of the first church we visited. It was originally built on the north side of the building but was destroyed in 1944. The church has no windows on the north--and was untouched. I suspect that after the only position of elevation was gone that the building was worthless to defenders and thus permitted to escape unscathed. It is made of treated wood--and smelled a bit like railroad ties.
Brigitte and her host mom discussing the flowers. The east side of the church is a half-hexagon. It's long name is the Naked Feet Church of Our Lady. Weird until you hear how it was built. The building is the only church in Hungary made from mud with sticks woven together inside of the mud to strengthen it. Then they used 'white clay' as well and stepped on it to pack it in and make it denser. Essentially, this is the 15th century equivalent of reinforced concrete with rebar.
I was gobsmacked pictures were permitted, but the church is a still functioning Calvinist/Reformist Church even though it is tiny. There were only sixteen pews total. On the ceiling you can see paintings. One was done by the worker, afraid he'd be forgotten. The remainder he did with themes of flowers and the months of the year. They are all painted on to the wood ceiling and date from 1766 or so.
This is where the pastor's family sits.
This is the pulpit. The 'lid' above it is meant to disburse sound out to the pews rather than up towards the ceiling. The flowers/fruits on it are shaped to look like a crown.
Families built their own pews or donated pews to the church. One pew has art drawn on the side. I believe this is a stork.
On the front of a stand near the door--this is the tree of life.
Our second church, built in the 13th century in a 'Roman style'. Notice the flowers? If only American places were this stylish!
Another view of the plants and back yard of the church--facing east. I believe it was in the town of Teslo.
Part two of the backyard--facing west.
Facing south.
This is from the back--though it's where you actually enter. It's had damage/wear over the years, including being repainted over art that was already there--done during the change from Catholic to Reformed/Calvinist.
The men's sitting area.
The smiling saints--believed to be the only church in Europe where all the saints are smiling--remember, saints lead sucky lives. These were painted over about the year 1500. When they went to redo a paint job and scraped paint off, these were found underneath (you can see the outline around them on the wall). There were some on the opposite wall, too, but they couldn't be saved. To the far right I didn't get to take a picture, is another fresco of Jesus, Mary, and Joseph--but it's funny because they've got two people behind them, bigger than them, looking like they are helpers...that's the guy who commissioned the artwork. So--if you have money, you can help Jesus. Those are the rules.
This is the small top floor where the family which paid for the church got to sit.
I didn't get a good picture, but this is the view from the top down. On the right, you can really see the color difference on the wall from when they stripped it down to find the frescos.
This is the ceiling. Inside it they put all of the church's critical documents. First, invaders wouldn't think to look in the ceiling. Second, the region is prone to floods, so a cornerstone or something at ground level would be prone to destruction.
Hungarian steer.
More Hungarian cows. I hadn't seen horns like this--very straight up. The cows were very hairy and different from their US cousins. I'm told their meat is quite tasty, though Hungarians prefer beef cooked "very well done."
One of Hungary's greatest poets, Sandor Petofi, wrote his poetry on walks in this field and was always inspired by this great tree. About twenty years ago, it was struck by lightning and effectively killed.
This is a baby tree grown from one of the branches of the original. It has survived and is prospering. Perhaps it will inspire someone else in 40-50 years....
This is a graveyard entrance. The headstones were interesting (see next picture). Also interesting, many graves in Hungary are raised a little--and then used as gardens so that they grow their own flowers. I really liked that.
The headstones are all shaped like the prows of boats. On the bottom half, it gives the person's name, age, death date, spouse, and a bit about their lives. I don't know how long the headstones survive.
These are two photos of the memorial/grave of Ferenc Kolcsey, the man who wrote the poem which became the Hungarian anthem. It's a sad poem, but Hungarians are proud of their anthem (as they should be)
We wound up about 5 miles from the Ukraine, but I wasn't carrying my passport, so we didn't go wandering there. Our timing was being done was perfect--when we were done, that was the point it started raining.
Back in Debrecen, we had dinner with Brigitte's host family and host sister's boyfriend, Gabor. It was leftover goulash, some Pogatcha, and I was asked to drink a small glass (think shotglass) of palinka. Palinka is Hungarian moonshine and its production is protected by the EU as culturally important. It's made from fruits and to me, is most comparable to schnapps. Tamas said that it's another of those things you must do in order to be Hungarian.
The other one was to eat Turo Rudi. It's chocolate covered 'cottage cheese'. Brigitte told me no one likes it when they eat it and she did a video of me eating it--except SURPRISE!!! it's delicious. It tastes like one of the flavors you get in a Valentine's Box of chocolate. That was the day. Tomorrow? Guess we'll see :)
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